Sew medical trousers pattern with your own hands. How to sew classic women's trousers. Pattern of tapered trousers - modeling
It's hard to imagine a modern woman's wardrobe without trousers. There are a huge number of different styles of this comfortable type of clothing. The main condition that stylists impose on trousers is that they must fit perfectly on the figure! In stores, whatever one may say, they sell clothes mainly for women with standard figures. What should others do? Of course, sew in a studio or do it yourself! Many novice dressmakers are afraid to take on sewing. And in vain! Sewing trousers with your own hands is not at all difficult if you know the entire sequence of their manufacture.
How to sew trousers: manufacturing sequence
Model
First of all, you need to choose a trouser model that suits your figure. If this is your first time sewing trousers, opt for a straight model without pockets. Classic straight-cut trousers should be in every woman's wardrobe - they are good in both business and casual settings. In addition, based on such a pattern, it will be possible to model any style of trousers in the future.
Textile
Let's move on to choosing fabric. Fabric for trousers can be divided into seasons: for winter and autumn, woolen and wool blend fabrics are more suitable, for summer - cotton, linen, silk, and mixed fabrics; as well as on styles: for business it is better to choose classic noble natural fabrics, for sports and home - more affordable in prices and quality. How much fabric is needed to sew women's trousers, see the link.
Measurements
The next stage is taking measurements for sewing trousers. We will need 5 basic measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference, seat height, hip height, length from the waist to the desired length of the trousers. How to take measurements, see.
Pattern
Let's start creating a trouser pattern. At this stage, many beginning needlewomen are faced with the question - where can I get a pattern so that the trousers fit perfectly on the figure? You can build it yourself or choose it from a fashion magazine. Or you can rip your old favorite trousers at the seams, transfer the contours to paper, and you’ll get the perfect pattern.
You can also copy a pattern from your favorite trousers or jeans, see the video on how to do this:
Uncover
Let's move on to cutting out the details of the trousers. We need to cut out: 2 front and 2 back halves, as well as a belt piece. First of all, you need to prepare the fabric - if necessary, decate it, and also iron it from the wrong side. See more details. Don't forget the seam allowances! Along side and step sections – 1-3 cm; along the middle cut – 2-3 cm; at the bottom – 3-5 cm; along the upper edge - 1 cm. To give rigidity to the belt, cut out the belt part from non-woven fabric.
Sewing
The details of the trousers are prepared, all that remains is to sew them. If you took labor lessons at school, you are of course well aware of and. If you have forgotten, see the information on the links.
If this is your first time sewing trousers, especially if the pattern is unfamiliar to you, you need to baste the details of the trousers, try them on, make adjustments, and only then proceed to sewing on a sewing machine. Be sure to use an iron; prepare a belt: glue the interlining to wrong side belt parts, if the model has belt loops, finishing parts - prepare them.
Shopping, choosing a style and model that will fit and sit perfectly, unreasonably high prices in stores - these and many other problems are experienced by most girls. Some give up in search of exactly their model, others buy for a lot of money, and still others go and buy fabric to sew something that will fit perfectly.
What is a base pattern and where can I find it?
To sew a product you need a sample. This layout is called a pattern.
Pattern – details of clothing that are made on the basis of a drawing. It consists of several parts, the choice of which depends on what needs to be sewn. It is very convenient to use such a base for creating small details.
There are several patterns on one sheet. You can find exactly your model along specially marked lines.
The details that are indicated on the base may not always fit perfectly, which is absolutely normal. In this case, the owner herself customizes the item to suit herself. The main thing is to take the basis for what needs to be sewn.
Often patterns can be found in specialized magazines such as Burda, or on the Internet.
Required Tools
To make the job easier, there are many craft supplies available.
When creating trousers use:
- paper for redrawing the pattern;
- chalk or pencil;
- needles;
- threads of the desired color;
- tape-centimeter;
- sewing machine;
- bias tape or overlock to finish the edges;
- other small details necessary for the design of the model: zipper, buttons, elastic band, etc.
How to take measurements?
The first thing you need to start with is taking measurements. To ensure accurate measurements, it is better to take them in underwear. The main tool at this stage will be a centimeter tape, with which you need to take measurements:
- waist circumference (at the narrow part of the waist);
- hip circumference (over a wide area);
- side length (interval along the side of the leg from the waist to the end of the leg);
- seat height (measurements are taken while sitting and look at the interval from the waist to the seat of the chair);
- knee height (along the side from the waist line to the middle of the kneecap);
- step length (with legs slightly apart, measured from the groin of the inner thigh to the floor).
To learn how to take measurements correctly, watch the following video.
Techniques for creating a drawing
Italian
A step-by-step explanation of how to sew trousers - great support for beginning seamstresses.
One of the most accessible is instructions for drawing a basic pattern using Italian technology.
This technique is perfect for sewing trousers for women who have a strong back curve. This problem is solved by shifting the side seam to the center of the back area by 1 cm. Due to this, the model will sit at the waist and on the hips.
This technology considers the production of straight women's trousers.
The first thing you need to do is take measurements. In addition to the usual measurements, do:
- increase in waist;
- increase in hips. Their level depends on how tight the product will be.
It is worth going from the front panel of the trousers:
- Mark A is fixed in the top right corner. From this point, two more marks are drawn one after another. From mark B in the left direction a line equal to 1⁄4 (hip circumference + PB) is drawn and mark B1 is made, and 0.5 from B is mark B2.
- To the left of C, a thread equal to BB1 is drawn - C1. And on the right is 1/20 of the hip circumference – C2.
- Now you need to connect A, B2 and C2. The middle seam will come out.
- From mark A, mark A1 is drawn and marked - 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3 centimeters. 1 centimeter is drawn from this mark and designated A2.
- Next, A2, B1, C1 are connected.
- In the middle of C1C2, mark D is placed. From it, a perpendicular to A1A is drawn to the upper section, and mark E is designated. From this boundary, BK is calculated downwards, a line is drawn and it is marked D1. The length of the trouser leg is calculated from the marked mark. This will be the F boundary.
- Lines equal to 1/2 the circumference of the knee are drawn to the right and left directions from D1. Right mark D3, left mark D2.
- Points F1F2 are constructed on the sides of mark F. They are equal to the distance of line D2D3.
- Now you need to connect the marks C2, D2, F2 - this is the internal seam. When connecting C1, D3, F1, an external seam is formed. And the line D, D1, F made earlier will be the middle of these two seams.
- To get a front dart, you need to set aside 1 centimeter from mark E in both directions and mark these points E1, E2. From the main mark E, go down 10 centimeters and mark E3. Connect the constructed points.
- To make the front part ready, you need to draw lines from A2 to E1, from E1 to E3, from E3 to E2, from E2 to A.
The back side is built on the drawing of the front part:
- To avoid confusing the lines, use chalk, pencil or marker of different colors.
- A segment of 1/2 AE + 2 centimeters is measured from line A on the left side and marked with a mark H. An indent of 2 centimeters is made from this mark and a line marked H1 is drawn.
- Now you need to measure 1/2 of the hip circumference and place C3 from point C to the left. Next, make a straight line from this point to H1.
- From C3, make a line to the right equal to 1/10 of the hip circumference, and mark C4.
- Now you should return to line A. Make an Italian shift of the side seam: from H to 1/4 of the waist circumference - 1 centimeter + 2 centimeters and mark H2. A perpendicular line is drawn from it up 1 cm and H3 is placed, connecting to H1.
- Next, draw the direction to L. It is obtained by crossing B1B2 and H1C3.
- A smooth guide 1/4 of the hip circumference to L1 is drawn to the left section from mark L.
- To get the outer seam you need to connect H3, L1. To form the middle seam, you need to draw a segment from L to C4.
- Next, sections of the knee and bottom are made based on the back half. To do this, you need to move 1.5 cm away from the marks D2, D3, F1, F2 and label them G, G1, F3, F4. To obtain a back and front seam, make a smooth line between L1, G, F3 and C4, G1, F4.
- If a recess is formed on the back, you need to turn to H1H3. Mark point M in the middle. Move 1 cm away from it in both directions and place 14 cm down parallel to H1 L. M1, M2, N are formed.
You need to complete the pattern by checking the length on the inside and outside seams. If it matches, then you can proceed directly to sewing.
According to Muller
Among the simplest technologies, there is a construction scheme according to Muller. This technique is a construction for beginners.
The pattern is based on a standard pants model.
- The main basis of the drawing is a vertical straight line, on which segments 1 and 2 are highlighted. The length of the segments depends on the shape of the hips. On average you can measure 1.5 cm.
- BC is measured by boundaries 1 and 3. VC is marked by points 3, 4. The length from the side to the foot is indicated by marks 1-5.
- 5 and 6 will indicate the measurement that corrects the length, the choice of which is dependent on the model and the height of the heel.
- Marks 3-7 indicate the hip area. Next, build straight lines from marks 2, 7, 3, 4, 6 to the right.
- The width of the front leg section is noted in paragraphs 7-8. The width of the front half, measured 1\10 of half OB + 1 cm, is recorded in marks 8-9. To get marks 8a and 10, you need to draw a line through mark 8.
- On line 7-9 you need to find the middle and place mark 11. Next you need to mark the segment 6-12. It will match 7-11.
- To get the middle of the front half, you need to form from the waist mark through marks 13 and 14 at the intersection with the knee and waist marks.
- From 15-16, make a straight line equal to 4-8 centimeters and mark points 15a and 16a. To align the corners at marks 15a and 16a, you need to combine 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. After this, the marks will be 17, 18, 19.
- Row 10-20, which determines the deviation of the bow cutting paths of the front leg area, is 1 cm.
- From mark 8, make a mark to the right, 0.5 centimeters long. Draw a straight line through this mark and boundary 20. 8a and 8b are equal to half of the segment 8a-17. Next, draw an additional segment 8b-17.
Now you need to make the front cut line:
- Make a short segment from it to the waist mark. The distance between the intersection of the straight line and the waist mark corresponds to 3-5 cm on the right side of the main vertical line. To achieve the desired shape in the border of the knees it is worth varying the distance between marks 18 and 23 and marks 19 and 24 from 0 to 1 cm.
- The side cut line is formed by a curve using connections 22, 7, 3a, 23, 15a, 15.
- The step cut line is made by connecting points 17, 24, 16a, 16.
- The segment 14-22 should be divided into two parts; for this you need to draw a straight line to the hip mark.
The back half of the trouser leg is built on the basis of the front:
- From mark 11 you should make point 25, for this you need to move 1-2 cm to the right. Next, make a straight line from 25. The distance from this point to the future mark will be 1/4 of the width of the butt. This point will be called 26. The line of the middle cut of the butt is determined by the interval between marks 3a and 27. This segment takes 3-5 cm.
- Next, combine 26 and 27. From 26, make lines in the upper and lower directions.
- The waist and hip lines need to be increased. At the waist, make a path to the left. At the hips to the right and left.
- Move section 26-27 upward until it touches the straight line of the hips and mark there 28-29.
- Next, draw 2 straight lines from the bottom to the knee on both sides of the fold at a distance of 2 cm from each other. This is how points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are formed.
- To form mark 35, you need to make a line from mark 32 through 29 until it touches the waist area.
- Combine mark 31 with 30. Depending on the shape of the buttocks, make the interval between marks 13 and 36 equal to 13-35 minus 0-1 cm. Merge 35-36 together.
- From mark 36, make a segment with a distance of 0.5-1 cm in the left direction to 36-35. This results in mark 37. At this stage, you can begin to design the upper border of the middle cut of the trousers. To do this, you need to combine 37 38. The distance between these marks will be equal to 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm + 0.5 cm.
- Next, draw a straight line from 38 to the top. Here you can draw the border of the side cut of the butt. This length is equal to the length of the front area of the trousers.
- It is necessary to arrange a tuck. It must be marked on the rear section perpendicular to the line 36-35. The length should be 13-15 centimeters.
- At this stage it is necessary to form the threads of the step cut and waist. The lengths of the step cut of the back and front should be equal. You should start making the middle cut.
In this case, the step is to compare the two parts, adjusting the border of the waist cut and darts.
How to increase the pattern to the desired size, how to reduce it?
Ready-made patterns always made in accordance with the standard figure. But don’t be upset, because you can increase or decrease it to a specific size.
You should carefully examine the back and front legs and cut along a vertical line in the middle and move them apart by 0.5-1 cm to enlarge. To reduce it, move the parts by 0.5-1 cm.
To increase the length in the pattern, you need to add 2-3 centimeters from the bottom. To see how this is done, watch the video.
Ideal fit of trousers: adjustment rules
Ideal trousers are their perfect fit, which can hide figure imperfections and correct them somewhere. But hand-sewn trousers are not always perfect. To do this, you need to refer to the adjustment rules.
Usually problems arise in the thigh area. For example, if a girl has full hips, this promotes the formation of folds. To get rid of creases, you can lightly work on the pattern. In front of the trousers, it is necessary to make two segments 10-15 centimeters above the step line by 2-3 cm and 10 cm below. Next compare the results obtained. Cut according to the marks. Place the resulting part in the left area by 1-3 centimeters and mark this side border. The same must be done with the rear section.
With skinny legs creates an image of baggyness. This can be avoided by removing excess volume. It is necessary to measure the OH from above and compare the resulting figure with the value on the pattern. Next, calculate the difference between the two numbers, and set aside 1/4 of the calculated value for the side and step areas of the back and front and thereby shorten the width of the trouser leg in the area of the girth of the leg at the top.
With insufficient volume of the buttocks A large accumulation of material is formed. To make the adjustment, you need to reduce the waistline by the required amount and reduce the LW in the back area.
To get rid of wrinkles under the buttocks, you need to work with ready-made trousers:
- On the finished product, you need to pin the excess fabric into one fold on one of the trouser legs from the side seam to the middle one. This fold needs to be removed.
- Next, open the middle seam in the area from the step line to the waistband.
- Next, connect the two trouser legs with the outer parts.
- When comparing the excess on an unpinned pant leg, move it up along the middle seam.
- The new border should be moved to the other half of the leg at the bottom.
- Next, sew the middle seam along the new line, and cut off the excess in the allowance. And remove the excess length in the waist area.
In the opposite situation - protruding gluteal area, folds and creases form in its lower part. To correct this problem, you need to measure 11 cm from the step line on the top and bottom sides on the back of the pants and draw 2 parallel ones of 12-15 centimeters each. Then combine their ends. Using the resulting features, cut the pattern. Shift the cut to the right literally 1-3 cm and create segments for the middle seam of the back and step.
Modeling Basics
Low waist
Modeling makes it possible to create the perfect pants, taking into account any particular figure. All models are formed on the basis of a standard trouser pattern.
- Before you start modeling the low-waist option, you need to move 2 cm away from the waist on both sides. Then you need to make a new lower border and cut along it.
- When creating the front part of a tapered model, first you need to narrow the trousers at the bottom to about 14 cm. Based on your height, shorten them according to the required measurement. Next, you need to determine the area of entry into the pocket. To do this, measure 4 cm to the right along the waist and 14 cm down. The resulting dart needs to be converted into a fold. For the zipper you need an increase of 3-4 cm in width and 14 cm in length.
- To obtain additional volume in the area of the hips and the second fold, you need to cut the pattern along the arrow line and spread it apart by 4 cm.
- To create the back of the trousers, you need to narrow it by 15 cm and reduce it. The width of the back leg reaches 1-2 cm.
With smell
Creating trousers requires the formation of the posterior lobe:
- Therefore, you should measure 5 cm down from the waist and draw a low section.
- Draw the yoke from the already updated waist contour. Its parts should be cut off, cut along the grooves and everything should be glued together. Its top and bottom should be rounded.
- Tapering the legs at the bottom and at the knee also depends on personal desires.
- When modeling the front part, you should reduce the waist border by 5-6 cm. Next, narrow it in the knee area and below. Draw the lines of two seams: side and step. Next, transfer the front onto tracing paper twice. Fold the two halves along the middle line of the front.
- To continue modeling, move 5 cm from the side line to the left and move 14 cm down.
- To create a smell, you need to split the front in half along the waist section. Step back 10 cm from the knee area and connect the created marks with a line. Create a scent strip from the resulting mixture.
- All red and lilac details must be re-shot on tracing paper. Display the red triangle as a mirror image in the left area. The lilac part needs to be combined with a red triangle. Along the side line and waist, all straight lines and round the corners.
- Additionally, design two parts of the belt with a width of 5 cm and a length corresponding to the length of the upper part of the trousers.
For pregnant
For full
The production of trousers for plus size people begins with the front pattern:
- On the vertical segment, set aside the seat height (points 1-2), VK (1-3), DB (3-4), create the desired length (1-5), half hip circumference + 3 cm (5-6) and hip line ( 3-7), front half width (7-8), hip half circumference + 1.5 cm (8-9).
- Make a segment at marks 2, 3, 4, 7. Make a perpendicular to the thigh area from mark 8. In contact with the BC and waist, mark 8a and 10.
- From mark 12, make a straight line through 11. When crossing the knee and waist marks, put 13 and 14.
- From 12, measure 4-8 cm into the upper area and mark 15a and 16a. Combine marks 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. Against this background, do 3a, 17, 18, 19.
- From 8 in the right direction measure 0.5 cm. Measure half of segment 8a-17 from 8a upward and thereby get 8b. Combine the resulting mark with 17.
- Mark 21 is formed from 10 by setting aside 1/4 OT + an increase for darts and loose fitting. If you move 1.5 cm away from the top edge straight to the waist, you get 22.
- Within the line of the knee, measure 1 cm from the ends to the inside - marks 23, 24. Mark the segments of the side and step cuts.
- The recess should be built to a depth of 10 cm and a gap of 1.5 cm. Finally, complete the creation of the waist.
When converting the back side, you need to copy the front half and add adjustments:
- Measure the rear fold area from mark 11 by 1-2 cm. From 25, make the width of the rear half - 0.5 cm. Mark 27 is formed by depositing 3-5 cm from point 3a. Close marks 26 and 27.
- The hips and waistline need to be increased. Make the width of the back leg from 28 to the point of contact with the thigh area.
- 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are made by drawing the lines of the side and step sections two cm from the front sections.
- The path from 32 through 29 to the waist creates mark 35. Connect 35 with 36 and set aside 1 cm to the left. This makes 37. From this point, measure 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm of dart + 0.5 cm of increase for a loose fit . Point 38 is marked here.
- It is necessary to move the side cut lines of the front side to part of the side cut of the back half.
- The dart is built with a length of 13-15 cm. Finally, you need to complete the middle waist area with a cut of the back section of the trousers.
How to sew it yourself?
Many girls are wary of sewing trousers, considering this product to be difficult. One thing that is difficult is possible. You need to start with measurements. To ensure that your pants fit perfectly, you need to take your measurements correctly. Measurements must be taken from a naked body. Press the measuring tape tightly against your body.
Based on your own measurements, you can start creating a pattern. When creating a pattern, you use your own measurements and values that were obtained using calculations using your own measurements.
Once the base of the pattern is ready, you can begin modeling. To do this, you need to choose a model of pants or trousers and, using ready-made samples presented in magazines and the Internet, create your own style.
Then you need to choose the fabric. All materials with elastane are suitable for trousers. You can also use wool, satin and linen.
It is recommended to iron the fabric before sewing.
All that remains is to cut out the details and sew.
Trousers have been an important item in any woman’s basic wardrobe for a century. This is a fairly durable item that can be combined with a lot of other clothes. And this significantly expands the range of images for everyday work and special occasions.
zarina.ru
Even if you have just begun to master the intricacies of sewing and have never taken on women’s or men’s pants, with detailed instructions filling this gap will be quite simple.
Sewing trousers with your own hands is quite simple if you immediately decide on a style that is in harmony with your body type.
Modern fashion has a wide range of interesting styles. For the first time, it is recommended to focus on the classic, straight type of trousers without pockets. They fit all body types, so anyone who sews can add their own original model to their wardrobe. Using this modeling method, it is possible to perform other types.
Modeling based on a classic trouser pattern
- Tight trousers with arrows.
- Low waist jeans.
- Flared pants.
- Pipe trousers.
- Trousers.
- Boyfriends.
befree.ru
Textile
The choice of fabric is the most important step before the main work of creating trousers, since the level of complexity of sewing will depend on the material. The process also takes into account the season of planned wear.
There is a conditional division of materials into two types: spring/summer and autumn/winter. For the first type, lightweight materials are suitable: linen, silk, cotton fabrics. For winter and autumn, it is preferable to take woolen and half-woolen ones.
Also, the fabric often dictates and conditions the style. For example, corduroy pants are more often used for sportswear, while at formal events classic noble natural materials (tweed, cashmere, angora) would be more appropriate.
alicdn.com
The amount of fabric needed to create trousers depends on two main criteria:
- clothing size;
- selected style.
There is also some advice when purchasing fabric. To avoid mistakes, add 25-30 cm to one length of the product for processing. Processing costs consist of the number of finishing fragments (pockets, belts, decorative elements). For the lining of trousers, it is customary to buy fabric equal to one length of the product.
Required measurements
- Waist circumference.
- Hip circumference.
- Seat height.
- Thigh height.
- Desired product length.
Take measurements with a measuring tape. All measurements, except seat height, are made while standing. The seat height is determined in a sitting position, taken from the surface of the chair or armchair to the waist.
Sewing trousers
For work, it is permissible to use an already formed drawing or take your purchased trousers and model a new product based on them. We have developed a master class in which trousers are sewn according to a ready-made pattern. However, for convenience, we present a version of the pattern for normal work with the drawing.
odensa-sama.ru
Materials and tools
- A pair of old trousers that fit you well.
- Paper.
- Pen.
- Scissors.
- Chalk or soap.
- Needles.
- Material according to size (about 2 m).
- Sewing machine.
- Rubber.
Not every woman can boast ideal forms bodies. Therefore, not all purchased clothes fit well on the figure. Every novice seamstress will be able to create jeans or shorts with a good fit, ideal for her body type. This structure describes in detail the complete process of designing and sewing women's trousers. Making patterns is not a very difficult process; it is enough to understand and learn how to cut things with your own hands.
In contact with
Step-by-step construction of women's trousers for beginners
Material for work
Taking measurements from a figure (abbreviations in the text)
- St - half waist circumference. The waist circumference is measured with a measuring tape and divided by 2.
- Sat - half hip circumference + 1 cm.
- Vk - height from waist to knee.
- Dp - front length.
- DB - side length + 1.5 cm.
- Ds - back length + 2 cm.
- Sun - seat height = (Sat: 2 + 1 cm).
- Sk - half knee circumference.
Construction of the front part
On the left side, draw a right angle with the vertex at T. TN - the length of the product along the front.
ТШ - seat height.
ShB - 1/3 of the Sun measurement.
TK - knee line.
Draw horizontal lines to the right from all points. Step width ShSh1 = Sat: 2 + 5 cm.
Ш2 = ШШ1/2. From point Ш2, draw a vertical line down and up.
T2K2N2 is an arrow line or a lobar thread.
Front cut outline. From point Ш1 to the left, measure 1/10 (Sb + 1) = point Ш3.
From point Ш3, draw a vertical line at the intersection with the waist segment and place point T1. Make a deviation of the middle horizontal line 1 cm to the left.
A shift to the left is not done when designing trousers, the pattern of which is drawn to fit a figure with a belly. Along the bisector of the angle from point Ш3, set aside 1/20 Sb = point Ш4.
Create a middle cut by combining points T10, B1, Ш4, Ш1 and extend the horizontal line to the right by 1 cm.
Constructing a pattern along the waist line. From t. T10 to the left put St.: 2 + 3 cm = T3. The size of one or two darts depends on the difference between the waist and hips. Connect point T3 to point B, extend line BT3 upward by the difference between the measurements along the front and side = point T30.
The knee width on the pattern is indicated by the section K2K3 = K2K4 = Sk: 2 + 2 cm.
From points K3K4, draw vertical segments to the bottom of the pattern. Connect the side cut with a smooth convex line to the step line, from point W to point K3, the outline can be convex or slightly concave. The segment from point K32 to the bottom line is always drawn in a straight line.
Step seam: point Ш1 is connected to point K4 with a straight vertical line. Divide this segment in half and at the division point to the left measure 0.2 cm, draw a crotch seam with a concave line to combine points 1, 0.2, K4. The interval K4H4 is connected by a straight line.
The dart at the waist is located in the direction of the grain in the arrow itself or can be tucked from point T2 to the left, and can be located towards the side line no closer than 7 centimeters.
Rear part drawing
From point Ш3 to the left measure 1 cm = point Ш30
t. T9 = segment T1T2/2.
Connect Ш30Т9 with a straight line and extend it upward.
T9T11 = 1/10 Sat - 1.5 cm.
From B2 up, measure the resulting value = B3.
Connect B3B together and continue horizontally to the right (hip line of the back trouser pattern).
Hip width = (Sb + 1 cm) - B1B = B4.
Waist volume T11T12 = St/2 + solution of one or two darts.
Section B4T13 = BT30 (notches are made along the contour of the hips at points B4 and B).
The width along the knee line in the drawing is equal to K2K30 = K2K40 (Sk/2 + 4 cm).
Vertical lines are drawn from K30K40 to the bottom of the product. B4 is connected to point K40 and the side cut of the rear half is formed with a smooth convex contour between T13B4 at the level of point W.
The B4K segment is formed by a slightly concave line, and the K30N30 are connected in a straight line.
The middle outline of the back trouser pattern. From point Ш3 to the right, set aside 0.2 (Sb + P).
Along the bisector of the angle with Ш3, set aside 1/20 Sb - 2.6.
Make a cut of the rear part, connecting points T11, B2, B3, ШБ, 1, Ш7 in a straight line.
Connect Sh7 with K40, making a step cut. Section Ш7К40/2, and at the place of division to the left, measure 0.8–1 cm. Form the cut with a concave line, combining points Ш7, 0.8, К40.
Section K40N40 is a straight section.
The bottom of the product passes through the points HH1. For classic trousers, the front half is made according to points H3, H6, H4, H2H6 = 0.8–1 cm.
The bottom of the rear part is determined by points H30, H5, H40, H2H5 = 1.5–2 cm.
The allowance at the bottom of the trousers is no more than 4 cm.
The dart position of the back trouser pattern is at the waist. T11T13/2, put T14 at the division point. From point T14, draw a strip down at an angle of 90 degrees to the waist, the tuck opening is equal to three centimeters. Its length is approximately 11 cm, depending on the shape of the buttocks. Create a dart by connecting points T15, T11, T16.
It is better to cut all darts on paper in half size. A notch is placed on the middle line (on), the middle and lateral lines are marked on the fabric.
A control mark on the fabric is placed along the knee line (cut depth 0.5 cm).
Allowances:
On the sides - 1.5 cm.
Along the crotch seams - 2 cm.
Waist - 1 cm.
Bottom - 4–6 cm.
A wedge at the back of the trousers is allowed, which is cut along the grain thread.
Cutting out the parts
After constructing the trouser pattern, the patterns of both halves are cut out. Tracing paper is applied to the drawing and the outline of one of the halves of the product is outlined. This can be either the front or the back. It is better to transfer the narrow part of your pattern onto tracing paper, since it is smaller in volume than the back one. Then a pattern is cut out from tracing paper.
Before sewing the product, the material must be washed so that it shrinks.. The fabric is then folded right side down along the grain. If the material wrinkles heavily, it needs to be ironed with an iron and steam.
The patterns are applied to the material, leaving space for allowances on each side. The pattern is secured with safety pins along the entire perimeter of the fabric. The parts are shallowened, allowances are added and cut out. In order for the trouser waistband to be rigid, you need to cut out a part from non-woven fabric and glue it to the wrong side using an iron.
Sewing the product
The first step is to sweep away the parts and try them on. If the product fits your figure perfectly, you can sew the halves of the trousers. First, the darts on both patterns are processed. Then the middle front and rear halves are sewn (if there is a zipper, sew in a zipper), side and step sections. The allowances are processed with an overlocker, the belt and loops are sewn on. The finished product is ironed with a steam iron.
Note
Based on the presented drawing, the remaining styles of women's trousers are designed. These can be shorts, breeches, fitted or voluminous trousers, jeans.
We all know that “the main thing is that the suit fits.” How to achieve the perfect fit of a suit? You can choose it for a long time and meticulously in the store, or you can bet on a win-win option - sew the suit yourself. To do this, you need to choose the right fabric, the right pattern and put in a little effort. Let's figure out how to sew the perfect trousers.
Before you start, you need to choose a model that is suitable for your body type. Modern fashion provides a wide choice interesting models, but when sewing trousers, it is recommended to pay attention to classic models suitable for all body types. These are straight trousers of medium width with a crease, trousers with a low waist, with an extension from the hip or tight-fitting at the top, with a slight extension from the knee. If you are sewing trousers for the first time, choose models without pockets. Now let's move on to choosing fabric. Of course, first of all you should take into account the season during which you are going to wear the new thing. Wool is suitable for winter, linen or silk for hot summer. Corduroy trousers dictate a sporty style, tweed will be appropriate for formal events.As you can see, sewing trousers is not an easy task. You need to pay special attention to detail and have skills in working with patterns and a sewing machine. Start with simple models, practice sewing individual elements - and one day you will sew your ideal trousers.